Humble cockles or posh clams? In most restaurants you have no choice — only imported clams appear on the menu. You are seldom treated to native, wild, hand-picked cockles. This is a shame as they are just as tasty as clams.

It’s not as if we lack cockles. The UK market is worth between £5m and £8m a year. Most of the catch is exported swiftly to Holland, Belgium, France and Spain. Lorry drivers in these countries might stop at a cafe for a plate of fresh cockles, though the British usually only see them pickled in vinegar.

Cockles are a winter forage, spawning from May to August. A sandy beach with spent cockle shells is a good place to start looking. They may be 2-8cm under the sand and can be howked out with a blunt rake. Small cockles, under 2cm across, should not be taken. In Scotland they have public fishery status, so up to 5kg can be taken for private use.

You must first purge them of sand — a good wash and a soak in sea water overnight should suffice. They can then be cooked and served, like mussels, in their shells.

But don’t be greedy. Mismanage- ment caused the closure of Scotland’s main cockle fishery in The Solway two years ago and it is not expected to reopen until 2010.

Dee Fish, 146 King Street, Castle Douglas, 01556 502788 www.deefish.net

Shellfish Association, Fishmongers’ Hall, London Bridge, London 020 7283 8305 www.shellfish.org.uk

Explore Food & Drink

• Gordon Ramsay

• Heston Blumenthal

• Recipes

• Wine

• Real Food

• Anjum Anand

• Eating Out

• Video Recipes

Times Recommends

• How to season a wok
• Chicago Rib Shack hits back at its critics
• Gordon Ramsay: Indian barbecue