Writing this on a cold, blustery day, I find my thoughts drawn irresistibly to the pressure cooker. Not that they’re ever very far away from the magic vessel, but the rapid onset of autumn makes them even more topical. And the theme for the day is a dish I call beans and a bone (B&B). Nearly every cuisine where meat is eaten has at least one recipe combining a big hunk of the stuff and a potful of beans. This kind of dish is a way of giving people the flavour of meat without having to spend too much money, and it might have been invented for the pressure cooker.

The B&B principle remains constant even if the details change. You use anything from one to four bones, depending on their size. Top choices: pig’s trotters, lamb shanks, smoked pork knuckle, a knuckle of ham or raw pork. Any type of bean is acceptable, as long as it’s of ample size and sturdiness. And you just use whatever flavourings are to hand.

The preparation and cooking couldn’t be easier. Lightly brown onions and garlic in fat or oil, then add the beans (pre-soaked), ancillary flavourings (these dishes take well to highly aromatic spices), and a tin of tomatoes. Put the meat on top and pour in 500ml of the tastiest fluid on hand – a mixture of stock and wine, stock on its own, or just water if that’s all you have.

Now lamp the lid on, bring to full pressure, and cook for 30 minutes. The meat should be just about falling off the bone, but not completely dried out. Any liquid left over can be added to soup or a rustic sauce. Please note: B&B is not elegant fare for a swish dinner party, it is hearty cooking. In an oven or casserole, it would need a two-hour expenditure of energy. The pressure cooker gets it from shopping bag to dinner table in a quarter of that time. I warmly commend it to the increasingly chilly house.

greenkitchen@thetimes.co.uk