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1. Le Valmarin, St Servan
THIS elegant 18th-century former shipbuilder’s house is a five-minute drive from the hustle of the port, but is set in quiet gardens next to a pretty church in the heart of St Servan, a small fishing village connected to the south of St Malo.It maintains a maritime theme, with old ship models,pictures of early explorers’ vessels, and a shiny brass ship’s clock behind reception. Many of the hotel’s floorboards come from planks from 18th-century trading ships.
Each room is different, with simple decorations, large beds and bathrooms, mini-bars, televisions and, in the top-floor rooms, exposed oak beams. You can relax in the downstairs bar or on sun loungers in the secluded rose garden. There are lots of restaurants nearby, plus artists selling pictures by the bay (a two-minute walk away).
Bottom line: Doubles from £65.
Distance to port: three miles.
Need to know: 7 rue Jean XXIII, St Servan, St Malo (00 33 2 99 81 94 76, www.levalmarin.com).
Channel hopping: Brittany Ferries (www.brittany-ferries.co.uk) has Portsmouth-St Malo returns, overnight with a cabin on the way out, for a car and two people from £230. Condor Ferries (www.condorferries.co.uk) has Weymouth-St Malo and Poole-St Malo returns from £276, for a car and two people.
CHERBOURG
2. La Marine, Barneville-Carteret
OVERLOOKING the sweeping sand dunes of Barneville and a lovely tidal bay 30 miles (50km) south of Cherbourg, La Marine is a real find. “Don’t tell people about it — please!” urge John and Sonia, from West Sussex, who are sitting next to me in the excellent Michelin-starred restaurant.
The food, by Laurent Cesne, the son of the friendly owners, is first rate, the views are spectacular and the rooms large and comfortable. There are also fantastic beaches and lots of cafés and bars within strolling distance.